Cosmetic Peptides(20)

In many different online sources, this peptide has been incorrectly referred to as Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3, which became a common, household name for it (this is why we still refer to it as such, to avoid confusing our customers), but it’s scientific name is acetyl hexapeptide-8 (also going under the original trade name Argireline).   This peptide is known for its water-binding and skin-restoring abilities; this is why it’s found such a wide application in the skincare industry.

AHK is a short peptide with the following sequence – Ala-His-Lys. It displays a powerful effect on fibroblasts (those are the types of cells that contribute to the formation of connective tissue and the growth of the extracellular matrix), but some research suggests it also promotes the growth of blood vessels.   AHK will also transform growth factor beta-1 and increase VEGF.

Just like GHK-Cu, AHK-Cu is also a peptide with a copper ion linked to it. This peptide is naturally occurring in the blood of most mammals and is vital in regulating various processes within the body, including cell growth and development, and the life death cycle of vascular endothelial cells (cells found on the inside of the blood vessels).   AHK-Cu showed a lot of potential in some limited medical studies where its effect on hair growth and age-related changes has been noted. We are still on the lookout for large-scale, more definitive studies to see the full extent of its potential.

Decapeptide-12 is a synthetic peptide, which acts as tyrosinase inhibitor (tyrosinase  is actually a group of enzymes that contribute to the skin pigmentation process and skin melanin regulation).   Decapeptide-12 was developed at Stanford University and created as a means of promoting the expression of melanin in hopes of fighting skin hyperpigmentation and dark spots.   Though we are still missing large scale scientific studies, some preliminary data shows positive results.

GHK is a peptide naturally found in human plasma, urine and saliva. Naturally occurring GHK is responsible for both collagen stimulation and breakdown as well as modulating the activity of both metalloproteinases and their inhibitors.   Besides collagen synthesis, GHK also stimulates dermatan sulfate, chondroitin sulfate and decorin. It is known that this peptide is capable of regulating at least 4000 hormones in the body and, as such, it found a wide application, even in the world of cosmetics.

GHK-Cu is also known as the human copper tri-peptide. GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring peptide, and it’s particularly interesting to researchers due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties and the fact it gets released from tissue after injury.   Even though it was initially thought that GHK-Cu only binds copper ions, the prevailing idea now is that it can up and down regulate genes involving injuries and stress response.

A lipopeptide is a molecule which basically consists of lipids that are connected to a peptide; they are even able to self-assemble into different structures.   This ability allows for incredible versatility, giving lipopeptides the ability to be used in the creation of antibiotics, toll-like receptor agonists, antifungal and hemolytic activities; they can also interact with plasma membranes and display bactericidal activity.

Matrixyl is scientifically known as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, a peptide consisting of five amino acids and commonly used in skincare products.   Matrixyl was specifically designed with skincare needs in mind, since it’s designed to enhance firmness, texture and reduce general signs of aging.

Also called Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, Pal-AHK is a synthetic peptide which consists of three amino acids – Alanine, Histidine and Lysine, with the addition of palmitoyl group. Just like when we were talking about Pal-GHK, the added palmitoyl group serves as a “vessel” that aids the bundled amino acids to penetrate the stratum corneum and enter the tissue. This added Pal group makes the entire compound fat soluble, increasing the overall absorption and effectiveness.   Pal-AHK Research Application We still don’t have many human studies, so we have to rely heavily on animal ones. These animal studies tell us that Pal-AHK has the ability to activate fibroblasts (a type of cell which contributes to the formation of the connective tissue), increasing the rate of extracellular matrix production within the skin.   Since the extracellular skin matrix is abundant in collagen and elastin cells, by boosting it, Pal-AHK raises collagen and elastin levels, improving skin appearance and tightness.   Some of these animal studies also pointed out that the Pal-AHK molecule affects the production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), crucial in new blood vessels production. Increased vascularity in the skin improves its physical appearance and rejuvenates in.   Speaking of skin appearance, we already talked about Pal-AHK’s ability to boost collagen and elastin levels; this, coupled with increased skin penetration, allows for wrinkles and fine lines appearance reduction, improvements in the appearance in age spots, skin tone and texture, as well as improvements in the overall skin smoothness. Of course, we’re only talking about animal models, we have yet to see some conclusive human studies.